Cilantro Haters: Test a Theory with This Zesty Sauce.
Peruvian Green Sauce (Aji Verde)
It’s hard to believe an herb can be so divisive. Some people think cilantro is just okay, but most either love it or hate it. Cilantrophobes are passionate about their position, as I was reminded while clicking my way through several “I Hate Cilantro” Facebook groups. Members call it the devil’s herb and share haikus protesting its flavor, tales of traumatic culinary encounters, and pictures of their anti-cilantro tattoos. I kid you not.
Research indicates that aversion to cilantro is rooted in genetics to some degree.¹ The leaves contain high levels of compounds called aldehydes.² Some people have a variation in their genes that causes them to be sensitive to these aldehydes, perceiving their flavor as soapy.
What interests me is a simple technique for neutralizing aldehydes. A 2009 study suggests that pulverizing cilantro rather than chopping it releases enzymes that break down the offending compounds.³ I made this discovery about the same time that Peruvian Green Sauce became my new favorite condiment. Having whirled up almost daily batches in my blender, it dawned on me that the flavor was more grassy and bright than cilantro-ish. I decided to try it out on a card-carrying member of the No Soap For Me club. He ate the sauce drizzled on tacos al pastor and enjoyed it, even knowing the ingredients in advance.
I realize one positive outcome doesn’t prove anything, but it’s a start. If you like cilantro, you’re probably going to love this sauce. (Be forewarned, it can be addictive.) And if someone in your life detests cilantro, maybe you can conduct some informal research of your own. It only takes a few minutes and a handful of ingredients to make, and given the potential health benefits⁴ of this controversial herb, it’s worth trying. It can be served with roasted chicken, tacos, potatoes, rice, eggs, salads…just about anything except dessert.
Peruvian Green Sauce (Aji Verde)
1 cup (packed) cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 small bell pepper, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1/8 teaspoon chipotle powder, more or less to taste
Add all ingredients to a blender jar or food processor and puree until smooth. For cilantro taste testing, allow sauce to sit for 30 minutes. Yield: 1 cup
Recipe Notes: Most recipes call for jalapeños rather than a bell pepper. The heat level of jalapeños varies widely but can be controlled by removing some or all of the seeds and membranes. Students may not have the experience to gauge how to make these adjustments before pureeing, so our recipe uses a bell pepper and adds heat and smokiness with chipotle powder, which is easy to adjust to taste.
1. https://flavourjournal.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/2044-7248-1-22
2. There are different types of aldehydes, including the ones that give cinnamon and vanilla their distinct flavors.
3. https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf901463p
4. https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-cilantro#1